What is carat in gold?
Gold is a precious metal known for its vibrant yellow colour, malleability, and resistance to tarnish and corrosion. As a naturally occurring element, its chemical symbol is Au, derived from the Latin word aurum. Gold has been highly valued throughout history for its rarity, beauty, and versatility, making it a cornerstone of jewellery-making for thousands of years. Gold, in its pure form, known as 24-carat (24ct) gold, is exceptionally soft and unsuitable for crafting durable jewellery. While its softness allows for intricate detailing, it cannot withstand the wear and tear of everyday use, leading to the development of gold alloys. In pre-Columbian times, the Inca, Aztec, and Mayan civilisations valued gold as a symbol of the divine and used it in religious rituals and burial sites. They were alloying gold with copper to create "tumbaga", which allowed them to create ornate pieces, rich in colour, representing the sun, symbolising wealth, power, and spiritual connection to the gods.
What is a gold alloy?
A gold alloy is a mixture of pure gold with other metals, such as copper, silver, zinc, and sometimes palladium, to improve its strength, durability, and to influence its colour. The percentage of gold is measured in carats (ct), where 24ct gold is pure gold, 22ct gold is commonly used for its rich, saturated yellow colour, which is highly prized for traditional jewellery, particularly in India, the Middle East, and parts of Asia, containing 91.6% pure gold. While 18ct gold contains 75% gold and 25% alloy metals, and 9ct gold has 37.5% gold and 62.5% other metals.
In the UK, the use of nickel in jewellery is restricted by law due to its potential to cause allergic reactions. Instead, jewellers often use palladium, and platinum as alternatives to nickel, or additional silver, to achieve the desired properties of the alloy. Traditionally, alloys also influence the colour of gold:
Rose gold is created by adding more copper to the mix, giving it a warm pink tone.
White gold is typically made with palladium or platinum, resulting in a silvery-white hue, often enhanced with rhodium plating for extra shine.
Yellow gold retains its classic colour through a balance of gold, silver, and copper.
What is white gold?
White gold does not occur naturally; it is an alloy created by mixing pure gold with other metals, such as palladium or silver, to achieve a silvery-white hue. Traditionally, alloying white gold gave cream-colour results and a need for rhodium plating to achieve a crisp, bright white finish, giving it the shine and lustre that made it so popular in fine jewellery. Over time, however, advancements in alloy technology have led to the development of a new generation of brilliant white alloys that no longer require rhodium plating to achieve their striking appearance. These alloys offer the same brilliant white finish, with the added benefit of being more durable and less prone to fading, making them a modern alternative for those seeking the elegance of white gold without the maintenance of regular plating.
Which gold is better for wearability?
9ct Gold comprises 37.5% pure gold and 62.5% alloy metals, such as copper, silver, or zinc, making it more hard-wearing. Its colour is paler compared to 18ct gold, due to the lower gold content, and it may lack the rich, warm tone that some prefer. However, it is a more affordable option, appealing to those on a budget or seeking practical, wearable jewellery. One potential drawback is that the higher alloy content increases the likelihood of tarnishing over time and may cause irritation for those with sensitive skin, especially if nickel is part of the alloy mix.
18ct Gold, on the other hand, contains 75% pure gold and 25% alloy metals, giving it a luxurious and vibrant yellow tone that is highly sought after in fine jewellery. While its higher gold content enhances its beauty, it also makes it softer and more prone to scratches and dents, meaning it’s better suited for special occasion pieces rather than everyday wear. Its hypoallergenic properties make it a preferable choice for those with sensitive skin. Additionally, 18ct gold retains its lustre and colour better over time, requiring less maintenance to keep its luxurious appearance. However, it is significantly more expensive than 9ct gold, making it a premium choice often reserved for heirloom-quality or bespoke jewellery pieces.
How to keep it sparkling?
It’s important to remember that no metal is indestructible. Even the strongest alloys can be damaged over time. To ensure your jewellery stays beautiful for years to come, follow these care tips:
Avoid exposure to harsh chemicals: Cleaning products, lotions, and perfumes can damage gold, so always remove jewellery before applying these products.
Store your jewellery safely: Keep your pieces in a soft-lined box or pouch to prevent scratching and tangling.
Clean regularly: Use a mild soap and water solution with a soft brush to gently clean your pieces. Avoid abrasive cleaners that can scratch the surface.
Remove before physical activities: Take off rings, bracelets, and necklaces when exercising, swimming, or doing heavy chores to avoid unnecessary stress on the metal.
Professionally clean and polish: Have your gold jewellery professionally cleaned and polished once a year, if you want to maintain its lustre, especially if it’s worn frequently.